In the real world, you can get smacked around by export limits, retailer offers, and cloudy winters faster than you can say “bloody power company."

How Many Solar Panels Do I Need?


Ah, the golden question. “How many panels do I need?” It’s usually the first thing people ask, and the truth is: there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. But there is a simple rule of thumb you can use to size your system smartly — without ending up with too few panels (pointless) or too many (wasted).

Let’s break it down.


The “Half the House” Rule (Your Bare Minimum)


Most Kiwis either plan on getting a battery straight away or adding one later. If you’re in that camp (and you probably are), then your first design goal should be:
👉
Enough panels to power half the house in winter.


Why half? Because in a power cut, half the house is all you really need: the lights, Wi-Fi, fridge, freezer, and a bit extra on a sunny day. That’s your survival kit.

And here’s the kicker — if you size for at least half the house in winter, you also maximise your annual savings without smashing into export limits in summer. In other words, you’ve got resilience and efficiency covered.


In most cases, we start our solar design using the below framework, and then work our way up while swinging within the guard rails of export limits and your homes actual summer usage.


Sun Hours Explained (The Secret Sauce of Solar Math)


Solar geeks like us talk in “sun hours.” But don’t get the wrong idea: one sun hour doesn’t mean the sun is blazing for just 60 minutes. It’s actually a metric — the equivalent of one solid hour at full sunshine.


In reality, one sun hour often takes two or three hours to “add up,” depending on cloud cover and time of year.


  • Winter in NZ: ~2.5 sun hours a day (but we design off 2, because it’s cloudy and we’d rather not under-shoot).
  • Summer in NZ: ~5 sun hours a day, sometimes more.


So, think of it like this: panels produce energy based on sun hours, not clock hours. That’s why solar output changes so much between June and January.


Quick Math: Sizing to Power Half the House


Here’s the simple formula we use:

Winter daily usage ÷ 2 (for half the house) ÷ 2 again (for 2 sun hours).


Example:

  • A household uses 30kWh on a winter day.
  • Half the house = 15kWh.
  • With 2 sun hours, you need a system that generates 15kWh ÷ 2 = 7.5kW.


So, a 7.5kW solar system is the bare minimum for this household if they want to back up half the house and make the economics work.


Export Limits: The Invisible Ceiling


Here’s the bit most people don’t get until it’s too late.

In most parts of NZ, the grid only lets you export 5 kW per phase, per hour.


That’s it. Doesn’t matter how many panels you’ve got — the inverter just
chops off anything above the cap. You don’t get paid peanuts for it. You get nothing.


  • Single-phase homes: Export limit is generally 5 kW per hour. So if your system’s bigger than about 8–10 kW, you're at risk of spilling energy in summer.Not fun.
  • Three-phase homes: Export limit is generally 10 - 15 kW per hour. Some in some cases your system can sensibly go up to 15–20 kW, but no more without wasting generation.


And another fun twist: many retailers only offer their best buyback rates if your inverter is 10 kW or smaller. Go too big, and you’re stuck on their “meh” rates — or locked out of a plan entirely.


How Panel Direction & Batteries have an impact


How your panels face changes how much DC you can hang off a given inverter before “clipping” (wasting potential).


On a single-phase system:


  • All panels one direction (e.g., all north):
  • Up to 9 kW of panels without a battery
  • Up to 11 kW with a DC-coupled battery (battery soaks peaks, minimising clipping)

  • Panels split across directions (e.g., east/west/north):
  • Up to 11 kW without a battery
  • Up to 14 kW with a DC-coupled battery and some smart charge schedules.



On a 10 kW three-phase inverter (To maximise the highest buyback rates):

  • All panels one direction (e.g., all north):
  • Up to 12 kW of panels without a battery
  • Up to 14 kW with a DC-coupled battery (battery soaks peaks, minimising clipping)

  • Panels split across directions (e.g., east/west/north):
  • Up to 14 kW without a battery
  • Up to 16 kW with a DC-coupled battery


Why DC-coupled helps: the battery can absorb DC peaks before the inverter, so fewer losses and less clipping. AC-coupled batteries can still be great, but they won’t tame DC peaks the same way — and they don’t change the grid export cap.


So… How Many Panels Do You Need?


The boring but true answer: it depends. But the simple rules are:


  1. Cover at least half the house in winter. That’s your bare minimum.
  2. Size using 2 sun hours, not 5. Winter is what really counts.
  3. Watch the export limits. Rejecting Sunshine has zero payoff.
  4. Panel placement + batteries matter. It’s not just about the number of panels, but how you wire them in.


Adding “as much as you can” is great — if export limits and inverter rules don’t choke your savings.


The Final Word


Solar isn’t about panel counts. It’s about smart design.


Too small, and you’ve wasted your money. Too big, and you’ve wasted your power. But get it right — sized for winter resilience and summer efficiency — and you’ve got a system that keeps your lights on, your bills down, and your fridge humming even in a blackout.


That’s the sweet spot.

By looka_production_130270016 February 7, 2026
Why We Can’t Size Solar Batteries Like The Aussies Do Most kiwis want solar to reduce their power bills, and mostly – their winter power bills. And most Kiwis tell us – “We want a solar system that charges up the batteries during the day so that we can heat our home at night.” News flash: Yeah........... Sorry - that’s not going happen aye. Here’s why. Everything You’ve Heard About Sizing Solar & Batteries Is Probably Wrong (For NZ) When you jump online and search about solar, you’ll find information from Bloggers and YouTubers in parts of the world with entirely different energy demand patterns. Think about Australia for a second. 99% of homes in Aussie use tons of power in summer, which is conveniently when they generate the most solar. Our clients often come to us with the idea that solar + battery means very little grid use with the potential for 'off-grid in the city'. In Aussie, that's almost possible! But not here, because most kiwi homes use more power in winter, than in summer - which is inconveniently when solar systems produce ~50 to ~70% less. We’re left with two conundrums: in summer, you can’t make the most of a big battery… and in winter, you can’t charge one. Batteries Should Be Sized According To Your Spare Winter Solar This is the main point. Read the rest of the blog for more insight. ‘Nuf Said. You Won’t Discharge A ‘Uge Battery In Summer Let’s say your solar system generates ~40kWh per day in summer – (typical for a 20 panels system). But your home uses ~25kWh per day. There’s a 15kWh difference between what your home uses, and what you’re generating. So if you don’t need that spare energy, what’s the point in storing it? * Whether you have a huge battery or not, if your home doesn't use the spare solar, you'll be selling that 15kWh for about 17c per unit, which adds a $2.55 credit to your power bill EVERY day. You Don’t Need Much Storage In Summer If your home uses ~25kWh on a typical summer day, the question is: how much of that energy demand occurs after the sun goes down? ‘Cos the reality is – most homes don’t use much at all. After 8pm in summer: … You’ve done the cooking … Used a bit of aircon in the arvo … Your hot water’s steaming … The beers are cold … And your TV uses 100w So on a 25kWh day, your home might only pull ~10kWh between 8pm & 8am. … So, with these rough summer calcs, with 20 panels, most people can only make the most of a ~10kWh battery. C’mon – Surely It Makes Sense To Have A Big Battery In Winter? Yeah, I know that’s what you’re thinking. Everyone thinks that. You get home from work... Crank the heating till 11pm, and then ‘sip’ the heating until everyone leaves the next morning. So of course, you need a big battery to power all that heating. But wait… Solar Sucks In Winter - Sorry ‘bout it. That system we spoke about, those 20 panels; they’ll generate about 40kWh on a typical summer day. But in winter, you’ll be lucky to get 30kWh. But most homes don’t have a 35 degree north facing roof. So 20 panels generate closer to 20kWh per day. And this hypothetical home we’ve been talking about (that uses 25kWh per day in summer), probably pulls 50kWh per day in winter. And of that 50kWh, 15kWh is probably pulled during the 9 – 5. Fridge, freezer, hot water heating, maybe a spa – whatever it is – even with nobody home, there’s still power use during the day. So, shit – of the ~20kWh these 20 panels are spitting out, more than half of it is chewed up by the homes base loads. The difference goes into the battery. And what’s the difference here? ‘Bout 10kWh, if you’re lucky. … So even though the house uses 50kWh per day in winter, there’s no point having a battery bigger than ~10kWh. It simply won’t get charged. You’re The Worst Salespeople Ever No, we’re not. We’re just saying it like it is. In summer, you couldn’t possibly use all of your solar. And in winter, you couldn’t possibly charge a huge battery. But you can still save a shit ton with solar. And the good news is, you don’t even need a battery to eliminate most of your summer bills. Read this . And this . And watch this. But if you want to reduce your winter bills, you’re going to need a battery. If it adds a year or two to your solar-system payback period, it’s nothing in the scheme of things. Especially when you consider the blackout experience. (Its awesome these days)! So, What Do I Do? Prioritize north, if you can. A north roof with a pitch of 15 to 45 degrees is ideal. North produces the most energy in winter, which gives you the best hope of charging a battery. If your roof has some north, and a bit of something else – prioritise north AND west. We love west, because west produces energy until the summer sunset, which is when you might want to cool your home. If your roof is East and West; look very closely at the winter production estimates, because most east-west systems struggle to charge even the smallest batteries in the 3 coldest months of the year. You Didn’t Answer My Question – How Much Storage Do I need? … Sorry, here’s the framework. Subtract your winter day time energy use from your winter solar production. The answer reflects the size of battery you should consider. You could buy a little more, but again – consider your summer evening loads, and ask yourself – do you want to spend a few grand extra (or more); just for it to be a pretty box on the wall providing little financial benefit? Does Equity Solar Brokers Support Solar Batteries? Heck yes we do! We love seeing our clients get batteries. About one third of them get batteries with their solar purchase. We’re not against batteries. We are obsessed with helping kiwis get a great return on their investment. We achieve that through smart solar system design and anonymous quote procurement, which is our leverage to getting sharp solar quotes. Everyone has a different solar objective - and we're all ears. Can't wait to hear yours. In a time of rising power prices and grid instability, batteries are awesome. And guess what – we’ve never had a client regret buying a battery. One client called to tell us they had a 2-day powercut, but only found out when the neighbors swung by. Priceless. Need a hand with system design? That’s what we do best. And we’ll get you the best quotes in the market while holding your hand every step of the way. Chuck your deets below, and lets do this.
By looka_production_130270016 January 24, 2026
Before your details are shared with a solar company, here’s what you should know about what happens next — and why this process doesn’t move at Uber Eats speed.
By looka_production_130270016 January 18, 2026
Because nobody likes being left behind