From Gas to Solar: Should You Go Traditional Cylinder or Heat Pump for Your Hot Water?

If you're still on gas for hot water, you're in a pretty common spot. But now you’re weighing your switch options — traditional electric cylinder with solar vs a shiny new heat pump cylinder. Which one actually makes sense in the long run?


Here’s the brutal, no-fluff breakdown — from someone who’s thought about this way too much.


The short summary is; most homes don't have the perfect roof for winter solar production. So; most homes should get a heat pump hot water cylinder. But for those who have a stunning north facing roof, a traditional cylinder + an extra 6 - 10 more panels is the way to go.


🔍 What EECA Actually Says About Heat Pump Cylinders


  • Heat pump water heaters use a vapour-compression cycle to pull heat from the air and transfer it to your water. It’s clever. EECA
  • According to EECA, they typically use 60–75% less electricity than a standard electric cylinder — and are cheaper to run than gas over time. EECA
  • But: they come with a higher upfront cost, and their lifespan is shorter — generally between 8 and 15 years, because of all the extra mechanical parts. EECA
  • They can also be a bit less efficient in colder outdoor air — when it’s freezing, that heat pump has to work harder. EECA


💡 Why Traditional + Solar Is Often the Smarter Long-Term Play (Especially for Solar-Optimised Homes)


If you’ve got a north-facing roof at a good pitch (20° or more), here’s where the math gets fun:

  1. Add more panels, not a heat pump.
    Tacking 10 more panels equate to another 4.5 - 5kW of solar panels. Adding them onto your typical 12 panel quote costs roughly the difference between a traditional and a heat pump cylinder. ($6,000 ish).
    Those 10 panels will produce the 3kW your cylinder needs on most days, even with a little cloud. And on a dark day, they'll still generate enough to power about half of the traditional cylinders energy demand.

  2. Longevity is on your side
    Traditional cylinders + well-installed solar systems can easily last 25–30 years. Heat pump cylinders? Likely need replacement after 12–15 years. That means another big bill down the line.
  3. Lower maintenance risk
    Fewer moving parts, fewer failure points. On the contrary, Heat Pump Cylinders need maintenance every few years to ensure their warranty is honoured. The sacrificial anode must be replaced every 4–  5 years to extend the cylinder’s life — but unless you’re a licensed plumber,
    you legally can't do it yourself.  So the ‘cheap maintenance’ argument for heat pump cylinders often forgets the bit where you’re calling a plumber anyway.
  4. Better alignment with solar
    With solar powering a traditional cylinder, you’re storing your sunshine in hot water. Over time, that’s gold. Whereas a heat pump draws consistent power and is less able to flex with variable solar generation.


⚠️ When a Heat Pump Could Be The Smart Choice


  • You use a LOT of hot water — big family, long showers, high demand. The efficiency gains from a heat pump start to make real sense.
  • You've got a small roof - because if you can't fit the extra panels, get the heat pump cylinder!
  • Your roof is under 20 degrees, and / or isn't facing mostly north - because anything but 20+ degrees north performs poorly in winter, which means high winter bills. Better to go with a heat pump cylinder and have guaranteed & low cost water heating.
  • You don’t mind replacing gear — if you're okay with swapping out the unit in 10-ish years, the savings during its life could justify it.
  • Space + noise work for you — because of the fan & compressor, your heat pump will need to live outside or somewhere it won’t annoy the neighbours. EECA


🔭 The Long-Term Betting Strategy (From Your Friendly Solar Broker)


Here’s our take (and yes — there’s a strategy):

  • If your roof is solar-friendly (north-facing, decent pitch), lean into traditional cylinder + solar. Use your panels to power that cylinder, and let it run happily for decades.
  • Don’t be tempted to spend on a heat pump unless you’ve run the numbers with all-in costs (buy, install, maintain, replace).
  • If you go heat pump, make sure someone has correctly sized it to match how much hot water you actually use. Too big or too small, and the maths breaks.
  • Remember: your solar system is one of your best long-term bets. It’s not flashy, but it’s steady, reliable, and built to last.


🍟 Some options to consider - just an indication


Consider these:

  • 12 panels installed + a good quality heat pump hot water system: $21,000
    *The heat pump cylinder will likely need replacing around year 15, and it will need maintenance every 5 years.

  • 22 panels installed + a traditional heat pump cylinder: $21,000
    *Both the panels and the cylinder are likely to last 30 years.


Same price. Similar outcome on your power bills, but a very different story once you factor in replacement and maintenance costs.


✅ Final Verdict


For most former-gas households with good solar potential, adding panels + a traditional hot water cylinder is going to pay off bigger, longer, and with less headache than jumping into a heat pump setup + a smaller solar system.


Some solar companies don't like our position on this. But just think for yourself, and ask, how many old homes in NZ are still running traditional hot water cylinders from the 90s?


Heat pumps are sexy, efficient, and “green.” But if you want long-term stability, fewer moving parts, and a system that just works — the old-school storage cylinder, powered by sunshine, (and a few more solar panels), often wins.


PS: Already got a traditional cylinder? Read our blog about your smart solar & hot water options.

By looka_production_130270016 February 7, 2026
Why We Can’t Size Solar Batteries Like The Aussies Do Most kiwis want solar to reduce their power bills, and mostly – their winter power bills. And most Kiwis tell us – “We want a solar system that charges up the batteries during the day so that we can heat our home at night.” News flash: Yeah........... Sorry - that’s not going happen aye. Here’s why. Everything You’ve Heard About Sizing Solar & Batteries Is Probably Wrong (For NZ) When you jump online and search about solar, you’ll find information from Bloggers and YouTubers in parts of the world with entirely different energy demand patterns. Think about Australia for a second. 99% of homes in Aussie use tons of power in summer, which is conveniently when they generate the most solar. Our clients often come to us with the idea that solar + battery means very little grid use with the potential for 'off-grid in the city'. In Aussie, that's almost possible! But not here, because most kiwi homes use more power in winter, than in summer - which is inconveniently when solar systems produce ~50 to ~70% less. We’re left with two conundrums: in summer, you can’t make the most of a big battery… and in winter, you can’t charge one. Batteries Should Be Sized According To Your Spare Winter Solar This is the main point. Read the rest of the blog for more insight. ‘Nuf Said. You Won’t Discharge A ‘Uge Battery In Summer Let’s say your solar system generates ~40kWh per day in summer – (typical for a 20 panels system). But your home uses ~25kWh per day. There’s a 15kWh difference between what your home uses, and what you’re generating. So if you don’t need that spare energy, what’s the point in storing it? * Whether you have a huge battery or not, if your home doesn't use the spare solar, you'll be selling that 15kWh for about 17c per unit, which adds a $2.55 credit to your power bill EVERY day. You Don’t Need Much Storage In Summer If your home uses ~25kWh on a typical summer day, the question is: how much of that energy demand occurs after the sun goes down? ‘Cos the reality is – most homes don’t use much at all. After 8pm in summer: … You’ve done the cooking … Used a bit of aircon in the arvo … Your hot water’s steaming … The beers are cold … And your TV uses 100w So on a 25kWh day, your home might only pull ~10kWh between 8pm & 8am. … So, with these rough summer calcs, with 20 panels, most people can only make the most of a ~10kWh battery. C’mon – Surely It Makes Sense To Have A Big Battery In Winter? Yeah, I know that’s what you’re thinking. Everyone thinks that. You get home from work... Crank the heating till 11pm, and then ‘sip’ the heating until everyone leaves the next morning. So of course, you need a big battery to power all that heating. But wait… Solar Sucks In Winter - Sorry ‘bout it. That system we spoke about, those 20 panels; they’ll generate about 40kWh on a typical summer day. But in winter, you’ll be lucky to get 30kWh. But most homes don’t have a 35 degree north facing roof. So 20 panels generate closer to 20kWh per day. And this hypothetical home we’ve been talking about (that uses 25kWh per day in summer), probably pulls 50kWh per day in winter. And of that 50kWh, 15kWh is probably pulled during the 9 – 5. Fridge, freezer, hot water heating, maybe a spa – whatever it is – even with nobody home, there’s still power use during the day. So, shit – of the ~20kWh these 20 panels are spitting out, more than half of it is chewed up by the homes base loads. The difference goes into the battery. And what’s the difference here? ‘Bout 10kWh, if you’re lucky. … So even though the house uses 50kWh per day in winter, there’s no point having a battery bigger than ~10kWh. It simply won’t get charged. You’re The Worst Salespeople Ever No, we’re not. We’re just saying it like it is. In summer, you couldn’t possibly use all of your solar. And in winter, you couldn’t possibly charge a huge battery. But you can still save a shit ton with solar. And the good news is, you don’t even need a battery to eliminate most of your summer bills. Read this . And this . And watch this. But if you want to reduce your winter bills, you’re going to need a battery. If it adds a year or two to your solar-system payback period, it’s nothing in the scheme of things. Especially when you consider the blackout experience. (Its awesome these days)! So, What Do I Do? Prioritize north, if you can. A north roof with a pitch of 15 to 45 degrees is ideal. North produces the most energy in winter, which gives you the best hope of charging a battery. If your roof has some north, and a bit of something else – prioritise north AND west. We love west, because west produces energy until the summer sunset, which is when you might want to cool your home. If your roof is East and West; look very closely at the winter production estimates, because most east-west systems struggle to charge even the smallest batteries in the 3 coldest months of the year. You Didn’t Answer My Question – How Much Storage Do I need? … Sorry, here’s the framework. Subtract your winter day time energy use from your winter solar production. The answer reflects the size of battery you should consider. You could buy a little more, but again – consider your summer evening loads, and ask yourself – do you want to spend a few grand extra (or more); just for it to be a pretty box on the wall providing little financial benefit? Does Equity Solar Brokers Support Solar Batteries? Heck yes we do! We love seeing our clients get batteries. About one third of them get batteries with their solar purchase. We’re not against batteries. We are obsessed with helping kiwis get a great return on their investment. We achieve that through smart solar system design and anonymous quote procurement, which is our leverage to getting sharp solar quotes. Everyone has a different solar objective - and we're all ears. Can't wait to hear yours. In a time of rising power prices and grid instability, batteries are awesome. And guess what – we’ve never had a client regret buying a battery. One client called to tell us they had a 2-day powercut, but only found out when the neighbors swung by. Priceless. Need a hand with system design? That’s what we do best. And we’ll get you the best quotes in the market while holding your hand every step of the way. Chuck your deets below, and lets do this.
By looka_production_130270016 January 24, 2026
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By looka_production_130270016 January 18, 2026
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